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Skills are necessary to play the game. Skills enable players to control the
puck, to beat other players. Skills are necessary for players to interact with
others. No team play can effectively exist unless there is a level of individual
skill. The more skills a player has the more options open for that player, and
the more difficult it is for the opposition to contain him or her.
Skills or techniques can be broadly divided into three classes:
7.1 SNORKELLING SKILLS
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Snorkelling skills consist of the techniques needed to effectively move
around the pool. They of course include the basics of snorkelling: swimming
underwater, using the snorkel. However they more importantly include some
techniques specific to underwater hockey:
- Staying flat on the bottom (especially while playing the puck).
- Getting to the bottom quickly - Head first (Duck Dive) and Feet first
(Frog Dive).
- Turns on the bottom - clockwise and anti-clockwise.
7.2 INDIVIDUAL TECHNIQUES
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Individual techniques comprise the range of skills that a player can use by
himself. The full range may be unlimited although there are several basic skills
which every player will need. These are:
- Moving the puck from side to side under the body.
- Moving the puck from behind to front alongside the body on both left and
right sides.
- Tic Tacs (moving the puck about a foot from side to side using both sides
of the stick. The front of the stick should stay flat on the bottom and the
action should spin the puck). This teaches players to point the stick which
aids tackling and stick dexterity.
It is normally difficult for beginners to perfect these basic skills. The
actions are difficult and the time to practise underwater is limited by
breath-hold to about 10 to 20 seconds. It is well worth teaching the basic
skills on the poolside - or preferably a carpet. Practising on a carpet
definitely helps both learning and perfecting stick skills. The basic skills
should be able to be done without looking at the puck, and lots of carpet
practice is the quickest way to achieve this.
The list of techniques can then grow almost limitlessly. In the following
sections are discussed some areas which are particularly important to beginners
or even more experienced players.
7.2.1 Tackling
In underwater hockey a great deal of the time in a game will be played with
the opposition in possession. Learning how to tackle is of great importance for
beginners. If they can tackle they will generally be more confident on the
bottom, they will get more possession themselves which will help them improve
more quickly and they will be have a better chance of playing a team game. (Most
of these points apply to more experienced players too.)
(1) Spike
For beginners, it can be difficult to gain possession of the puck unless it
is given to them. It is necessary for them to learn how to tackle. The simplest
tackling skill to learn is spiking. It is simple to pick up, easy to do, and
requires little strength. Make sure that the players have strings on their
sticks which go around the palm: on a spike, the string takes most of the force.
When teaching how to spike, the hardest part is convincing beginners that it is
OK to spike hard. Timing is also important: they must hit the puck before their
arms are fully extended. Have them practise spiking the pool wall until they do
it hard enough. Later, try them spiking the puck for a width or so. Then have
them turn their hands palm up for every second spike: this will prove invaluable
along a wall.
(2) Spoiling
Most beginners will get into a confrontation with an opposition player when
they are pushing against each other with the puck in between their two sticks.
Teach them how to twist their wrists to force the puck off onto their stick
side. Alternatively they can suddenly relax, and have their opponent reflexively
throw the puck away or push upwards to push the puck over the opposition's stick
rather than against it.
(3) Turning
Spiking can be effective especially at beginner level. It encourages
confidence and aggression. However as players improve the spike becomes less
effective. Beginners when spiked tend to give up hence giving the spiker the
puck; more experienced players will keep control. More effective tackling relies
on taking the puck away from the opposition. This should be taught as early as
possible as it can determine a player's style in the future.
Teaching turning skills is described in Basic
Skills. The next step is to teach players how and when to use the turn to
take possession of the puck. The most important element in using a turn to
tackle someone is ensure that as soon as the tackler has possession of the puck
he or she guards possession using the body - particularly the shoulder.
It is important that beginners be taught to swim over the puck rather than
try to pull the puck to them. Swimming over the puck improves the chances of
retaining possession since the body can be used to protect the puck. Take care
to emphasize the importance of staying flat on the bottom - dropping the
shoulder - during the turn. Players tend to rise when tackling; this gives the
attacker the advantage as he or she can swim through. If the technique is
correct the effort is minimised; if incorrect (the defender rises) then the
effort required to complete the tackle is increased and control is lost.
The technique is best taught by having the players swim with the puck towards
you and then turn away from you while you attempt to get the puck. This teaches
them the correct shielding technique. Gradually increase the pressure you apply
in trying to get the puck. Make sure to practise both turns - that is to the
right and to the left.
The next step is to start with the coach or another player swimming with the
puck and the pupils tackling using the turns.
Once the basic technique is understood have players practise its operation in
the following configurations with the attacker swimming straight with the puck.
- Tackling on the wall - head-on.
- Tackling on the wall - turning.
- Tackling on the wall - chasing.
- TACKLING HEADON
There has been a tendency to think of turning as a weakness - a vulnerable
action. Certainly one should not go into a turn when not under any pressure or
when able to outswim the opposition or pass past them. However when players are
proficient and confident in their turns, the turn becomes a technique of
strength. Players learn to keep possession confidently and to free up their
concentration to decide what tactically to do with the puck.
7.2.2 Passing
One of the most important skills for a team game is passing. It may also be
one of the most difficult to perfect. A player requires:
- Controlled passing - receive and pass.
- Speed of pass.
- Accuracy of pass.
- Variety of pass - using front and back of the stick.
- Left
- Right
- Forward
- Backward
- Under body passes
- Passing communication - indicating to other players where the puck will or
should go.
Good passing seems to require several components:
- The correct design of stick.
- A sensible glove.
- The correct technique.
- Appropriate strength.
(1) Stick
The choice of stick is extremely important. So far no one stick appears
suitable for all players - in fact generally players who can pass well with one
stick have trouble passing with another (even a different colour of their own!).
Some guide-lines may be made for the stick design, but ultimately it is from
trial and error - practice and experimentation - that one decides the best stick
for oneself.
(a) Material
Wood is universally approved as the best material. It is easily
worked, absorbs shock and has good friction on the puck. Most commonly used
types of wood are:
- Plywood - almost any type.
- Rimu - prone to split
- Teak - tough but does crumble with age.
- Oak - hard wearing (maybe too hard).
- Pine
(b) Shape
The basic shape is shown below:
BASIC STICK
There are untold variations possible. One of the most common is to flatten
the leading edge of the stick intending to get a straight passing edge. This may
be more effective for passing.
Thought about the handle shape is often neglected. The handle could be as
important as the playing area's shape. The picture of the BASIC STICK shows a
handle which curves forward. The effect is to make the stick curve to the right
when held normally and the handle also fits in the palm more comfortably.
Not shown in the drawings is the bevel or angle on the playing edge. In order
to lift the puck most players put a gradient of about 10 degrees on the front
edge of the stick. The slope is so as to encourage the puck to lift when moving
the stick forward. The front edge should be bare if possible (don't paint it or
varnish it) and uniformly level for best friction on the puck. A rounded front
edge will not connect the puck with the same surface area as a flat front edge,
and this seems to affect passing reliability.
Some players bevel a mark at the thumb position on the stick - this helps
twist the stick upwards when passing to further improve the lift on the puck.
(2) Glove
The glove is almost as important as the stick design. If a player uses a very
thick or loose-fitting glove then the stick is higher off the pool bottom than
with a thinner glove. This means that the stick is higher up the puck. If the
stick edge is above the puck's centre of gravity it is going to be even harder
to lift the puck. Keep the glove thin (especially on the bottom) and passing
should be improved.
Again there are many styles of glove:
- Silicon - made from RTV or Silicon Glass sealant layered on woven nylon or
polypropylene gloves. Don't use cotton or natural materials - they will rot.
Rub the silicon in all over the glove - it will protect and strengthen the
material. Some people cut out the palm for better feel or grip of the stick.
- Rubber - instead of silicon use latex. This may be tougher.
Radiator Hose - cut finger pieces out of radiator hose of any flexible hose.
The result is protection which is tight fitting and leaves the palm and fingers
bare. It is inconvenient as normally tape is used to fasten the finger pieces.
(3) Technique
An ideal pass is one in which the puck is spinning and lifted a foot or so
off the bottom. (There may be debate about sliding passes versus lifted passes,
but at most levels the lifted pass is most effective). The spinning stabilises
the puck and gives it improved penetration through the water - just like a
Frisbee.
The ideal pass comes from the wrist. It is a quick flick using the wrist but
primarily the thumb. This is quick, unpredictable and gives the correct action
to lift the puck.
When teaching passing start by:
- getting the player to spin the puck on the bottom. Exaggerate the spinning
action - moving the stick edge across the puck without trying to move the puck
forward.
- When the puck is being spun successfully start adding forward motion, but
without trying to lift the puck yet. Watch that their elbow is not too bent
and that the force comes as much as possible from the upper arm - not the
shoulder. The stick should be level with the bottom of the pool throughout
this action.
- Have them try to lift the puck by starting to twist the stick upwards at
the follow-through. The action should be to try to dig the puck up with the
bottom edge of the front part of the stick.
- Practise, practise, practise.
(4) Strength
The quality of passing basically comes down to strength. Lots of practice
gives strength. Other exercises are useful - the grippies used by squash and
tennis players or anything that increases the strength of the grip will probably
help.
7.2.3 Wall Skills
(1) General
In New Zealand play is often dominated by the wall. Techniques to control the
wall can therefore be important. There can be two main ranges of wall
techniques:
The first two sections below deal with moving off the wall.
Generally it is best to avoid head-on confrontation on the wall. In a head-on
situation it is difficult to control the game. Generally the stronger player
will win - unless skill is used. When defending on the wall:
- Keep relaxed, flat, facing the puck.
- Keep the stick on the puck with the tip pointing forward and touching the
wall. This will help withstand any pressure and have the effect of moving the
puck off the wall where skill has more chance.
- If the puck goes behind you the best choice is to turn and control the
puck. Hooking it immediately back up the wall simply gives the opposition
another chance.
- Sometimes - near the goal for example - confrontation can not be avoided.
In this case keep your stick on the puck and try to move it behind the
opposition. Avoid a straight pushing battle unless you are sure of winning. If
you get caught pushing then the puck can be flicked over the opposition stick
by pushing and moving upwards. This may need several attempts and only works
reliably if done quickly and from a position flat on the bottom.
The moves described below are examples of ways for a player to move the puck
off the wall.
(2) Left Wall
- Right Hand Pull (dummy turn) - move to turn around to the left but only go
half way then take the puck under your shoulders to the right hand side and
swim off the wall.
- Back Hook - hook with the back of the stick (from left to right for
right-handers).
- Swim and Big Pass - simply swim up the wall (preferably a few feet off it)
and pass into the middle.
- Normal Curl and Swim out - turn into the wall, take out the opposition in
the turn and swim to the middle.
- Inside curl and swim/pass - turn into the middle, then swim towards the
middle. (This is less predictable than the normal curl.)
- Curl and pass (inside edge) - turn and flick quickly.
- Right Fade - swimming up the wall move the puck across the front from left
to right, catch it with the left side of the stick (arm outstretched to the
right), accelerate so that the body moves between the wall (and the defender
there) and the puck. Then bring the puck forward again.
- Under Body Passes - turn into the wall and then flick under the body into
the middle.
(3) Right Wall
- Left Side Step - move the puck to the right as if going up the wall, then
catch it with the left side of the stick, pull it quickly two or three feet to
the left, catch it again with the right (normal) side of the stick and swim to
the middle.
- Reverse Curl and Swim
- Inside curl and swim/pass - turn into the wall, take out the opposition in
the turn and swim to the middle.
- Normal curl and swim/pass - turn into the middle, then swim towards the
middle. (This is less predictable than the curl into the wall.)
- Swim and Big Pass - simply swim up the wall (preferably a few feet off it)
and pass into the middle.
- Dummy to Left - swim as though going up the wall, then smoothly but
accelerating pull the puck in an "S" motion from left to right (the puck
staying on the stick the whole time) and swim to the middle.
- Inside Flick - flick into the middle with the left edge of the stick.
- Under Body Passes - turn into the wall and then flick under the body into
the middle.
7.2.4 Middle of the Pool
Players should be taught to be confident with their skills anywhere in the
pool. The middle of the pool provides the most variables and may therefore be
the most difficult area of the game. Most of the other skills apply here.
Peripheral vision and speed are more important here because of the increased
number of options for both attacker and defender - a player with the puck may be
completely surrounded in the middle of the pool but never so at a side.
Some of the skills to practise are:
- Turns for defence (guarding possession) and attack.
- Curl and Swim (Suck in the opposition).
- Dummy
- Soak and Dummy - an exaggerated dummy where the puck is held at the right
hand side waiting for the opposition to attack it before moving to the left.
- Fade (as above in the left wall section).
- Swim past (Shield puck with body).
- Flick and Swim (Moving during Flick).
- Side Step.
- Under opposition's arm - inside flick under the arm.
- Under Body Switch - move the puck under the body to change direction.
- Picking up passes.
- Intercepting passes.
- Tackling opposition.
7.2.5 Individual Attacking Goal
Individuals can find it worthwhile training on their own with different means
of getting the puck into the goal.
- Flick in all directions and angles.
- Flick and chase.
- Pick up pass and put in.
Ideally when an attacker comes within the 3 metre area of an opposition goal
the goal should be scored.
S Stoke
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